This is TikiWiki 1.9.7 -Sirius- © 2002–2006 by the Tiki community Fri 28 of Jul, 2017 [18:58 UTC]

Forum: Hot Heads Tech Talk

Forums->Hot Heads Tech Talk->392 filter swap

RoushF150
392 filter swap


I want to change from canister to spin on filter and I hear I need to install a restritor under rear main cap I need to know what and how to insert in rear main oil galley
  user offline
on: Mon 19 of Dec, 2016 [13:03 UTC] reads: 2911

Posted messages

Top
author message
Webmaster
user offline
Re: 392 filter swap
on: Thu 01 of Jun, 2017 [12:43 UTC] score: 0.00
> I want to change from canister to spin on filter and I hear I need to install a restritor under rear main cap I need to know what and how to insert in rear main oil galley

Roush:
You can install a Hot Heads filter adapter without changing the bi-pass. The filters used on the Hot Heads adapters all have a backflow and bi-pass built in. When you have the pan of will be a good time to remove the stock backflow and bi-pass and install the Hot Heads oil block which will make all of the oil go through the filter. The full flow oil block has nothing to do with oil pressure or seal leakes.
Have fun and let us know if we can help,
Bob Walker

author message
moparjack44
user offline
Re: 392 filter swap
on: Mon 29 of May, 2017 [14:18 UTC] score: 0.00
> I want to change from canister to spin on filter and I hear I need to install a restritor under rear main cap I need to know what and how to insert in rear main oil galley

Very late to the party, sorry my cleaners was on vacation.
My 392 converted to spin on (when I bought the engine). "IF", no resistor installed during the conversion, could it possibly contribute to my rear main seal leak? Just fishing for any help.
Please, I'm not trying to butt in on your post.

Thanks,
Jack

author message
hemistude
user offline
Re: 392 filter swap
on: Tue 20 of Dec, 2016 [13:25 UTC] score: 0.00
"I don't think it actually works as a bypass..."

As usual George, you've added another low-value and off-the-main-point OPINION when someone has asked for HELP solving a problem.

author message
George
user offline
Re: Re: 392 filter swap
on: Wed 21 of Dec, 2016 [16:47 UTC] score: 0.00
> "I don't think it actually works as a bypass..."
>
> As usual George, you've added another low-value and off-the-main-point OPINION when someone has asked for HELP solving a problem.

You are certainly entitled to post your opinion... He said "I hear I need to install a restrictor"? Comment was directed to that. Yes, How to change it out was already covered. Actually I ran out of time to answer. If engine is torn down, yes, install the block. If still driving it & just want to upgrade to the spin on then the small amount of oil that seems capable of getting by the check ball isn't very large & has been happening since the engine was new. I'd just swap out the fllter assembly. Have a nice day!cool

author message
hemistude
user offline
Re: 392 filter swap
on: Mon 19 of Dec, 2016 [19:55 UTC] score: 0.00
> I want to change from canister to spin on filter...

I just found this on Jalopy Journal. It gives the sizes and a somewhat different approach.

"The valve is just a tube like deal with a window on both sides and a check ball in it designed back then to bypass the oil filter in certain situations. You want all the oil going thru the filter nowadays. This stock valve gets all corroded and crappy and won't come clean when you hot tank the block. You have to take it out. To take it out, have the motor upside down (main caps up) and come up through the oil sending unit hole with a long 1/4 rod or something and drive it up and out. More than likely it'll be crappy & corroded & it'll bust at the windows, leaving the bottom part down in there, this is the oh-shit moment, no big deal though. When this happens carefully hand drill it to 27/64 & tap it with a 1/2-13 tap. Then get a 1/2 bolt, space it out with about 5 or 6 lock washers (make sure you have the bolt down in with as many threads catching as possible) then slowly tighten it. The lock washers with help pop it out once it starts coming."

"Now you've got a mess and might have to tank it again, but there's no other way to get it out cleanly. But when you see all the gunk that was in there you'll be glad you done it. Hopefully you're doing this before your first hot tanking. Then put the little purple one that Hot Heads sells in there, with the window facing the oil filter. Now you're sending all oil thru the filter, all the time."

Dave

author message
George
user offline
Re: Re: 392 filter swap
on: Mon 19 of Dec, 2016 [21:08 UTC] score: 0.00
a check ball in it designed back then to bypass the oil filter in certain situations.

I don't think it actually works as a bypass. It's an anti-drainback check valve/ball. When the oil hits the ball it's forced up into the passage blocking it. when you shut off it is forced by the spring down to block oil from leaving the oil filter.

author message
hemistude
user offline
Re: 392 filter swap
on: Mon 19 of Dec, 2016 [14:19 UTC] score: 0.00
> I want to change from canister to spin on filter...

Check here: http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Rebuild/HemiRebuild.html

This is a great 3 part article with really good pictures and it describes all aspects of building an early hemi.

Another great knowledge resource is Hemihaynes: http://www.hemihaines.com/build-an-early-model-hemi.html

If it's on the engine stand this is pretty straightforward.

If the engine is in the car its a little more trouble but not impossible.

Maybe you'll be luckier than me. I had problems getting the shell of the old valve out (I did the work with the engine in the car.) I used a steel rod to drive the sucker out from the top after removing the rear cap.

With luck, the old valve will come out in one piece. Mine didn't. The internal parts came out but the shell stayed in.

For tap sizing purposes I picked out a drill bit that exactly fit the hole on the block then selected a tap that was a little smaller (sorry I can't remember the sizes from 10 years ago. You need a tap that goes in pretty easily so you don't expand the shell, just cut shallow threads in it. I threaded the tap in several turns. Then you can gently hammer the rod from the top again and the tap will drag the shell out the bottom. Patience and gentle tapping will get it out.

Use a suitably-sized engine brush to remove any remaining debris and flush from the top with some oil compatible liquid. You can insert the hotheads block plug and put it back together. remember to lube the lower bearing shell and be sure the hollow locator tube is in place in the block before you re-torque. You'll be good to go.

What i described above worked on my tall-deck Dodge. Its the same on all models. Good luck.

Dave

author message
RoushF150
user offline
Re: 392 filter swap
on: Mon 19 of Dec, 2016 [13:03 UTC] score: 0.00
> I want to change from canister to spin on filter and I hear I need to install a restritor under rear main cap I need to know what and how to insert in rear main oil galley


Page: 1/1

Show posts: