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jgrady
camshaft w solids 392


Hi, guys, rebuildinga 300D engine ,stroked, to 450, 10.5 :1 , hot heads heads.-- set up originally w solids from Mopar, 300D rockers, around 280 degree advertised stock, about 430 lift ; the cams listed on hot heads site with solids seem somewhat hotter,and you run into vacuum/ brake issues in a big car like a 300D; do not want to back into hydraulics . Has 11" converter. We all over cam at least once....on street. Wary.

Also noted HH engine masters 380" did the job at 5500 RPM, kind of saying 270 area cam is a good deal, unless planning 6000 +. = not me with stroker.

So bought a new Isky solid about 268 advertised , about .430. Interesting, on duration question, as a 300 lettercar guy, one of the highest specific out put MOPAR street engine is the 300 J wedge, crossram, 390 HP same as 440 sixpack, but a 413. it had 268. They Backed down from 270-280 in 55-57. I know ,hemi. But J had CI headers, cross ram. factory dual quad WCFB manifold is garbage.

Point of all this went looking for solids, higher lift , 275 degree area , comp had something in the .480 lift area,"if we can get a core" ; but customer service there is garbage now, guy disappeared after quoting a cam, was available nitrided too. Using howards solids with oil hole.

Saw new roller steel HH cam , would like to find the answer here at HH. What was in engine masters engine? Comments really welcome. thank you, John
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on: Tue 18 of Jul, 2017 [18:18 UTC] reads: 716

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ron37
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Re: camshaft w solids 392
on: Wed 26 of Jul, 2017 [00:39 UTC] score: 0.00
Well on the roller cam gear, if you get the right company doing the grinding from a billet, they can fix it. Myself and several friends have had new ones made. The companies just cut the gears off of old junk or used cams and pin them on the new cam. Then no wear worries about bronze or other materials. I'm thinking that Hot Heads can have it done also for you. Check with Bob.

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billm
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Re: camshaft w solids 392
on: Thu 20 of Jul, 2017 [23:07 UTC] score: 0.00
It sounds like you are building a very nice engine. It also sounds like you are not building an engine "on the cheap". If so, I would strongly recommend you go with a hydraulic roller cam. The only downside to roller cams, especially hydraulics, is the cost. Power, torque, and efficiency can all be improved with a roller cam. If you are not planning to rev your engine over 5,500RPM, there is no reason to use a solid lifter cam.

The cam specifications you a referring to are old school flat-tappet numbers. In the old days valve lift was low and duration was high. Your HH heads are very efficient, and like valve lift. A .430 lift cam would be an insult. With a roller cam you can have plenty of valve lift without having too much duration.

Talk to Bob at Hot Heads. It wouldn't hurt to talk to some other cam companies too. Get their advice. Be honest with what you have, and what you expect.

You will need, at the the least, a new cam, new lifters, new pushrods, and valve springs suitable for the roller cam. You will also need an intermediate shaft gear compatible with the roller cam. Several companies offer special gears that will work, and they last far longer than bronze gears.

Good luck,
Bill



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