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Forum: Hot Heads Tech Talk

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on: Thu 01 of Jan, 1970 [00:00 UTC] reads:

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392PT50
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Breather setup?
on: Sun 07 of Mar, 2021 [21:48 UTC] score: 0.00
I need help finding a way to vent my 392 HEMI. I have the billet valley pan that has oil caps on either end. My valve covers are not an option. Does anyone have a setup that works that they'd be willing to share? Thanks!

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George
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Re: Breather setup?
on: Sun 07 of Mar, 2021 [23:12 UTC] score: 0.00
Try to replicate the oil fill cap/breather & tube that came on the engine where you have the front oil cap, that's how to get air in. Then use a grommet & PVC valve where the rear oil cap is. Or are you tlking a drag motor?

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ron37
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330 Valve Springs
on: Fri 05 of Mar, 2021 [20:20 UTC] score: 0.00
A buddy is building a 330 Desoto. He had a hydraulic roller cam made for it. The grinder said use valve spring not over 130 lbs. A mechanic told him that high would cause abnormal wear on his new cam. I said the guy was probably thinking about flat tappet type cams. What do you guys think would be okay for a billet hydraulic roller cam. He said it is a lumpy style street cam with low end to mid-range 5000. I laughed as mid-range. 5000 isn't mid-range to me. Thought I'd drop that in there. I think he meant it keep building some to 5K. So give me some ball park number of what you would do.

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George
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Re: 330 Valve Springs
on: Sun 07 of Mar, 2021 [16:34 UTC] score: 0.00
What spring pressure did the cam maker specify?

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DaveBlakeman
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Re: 330 Valve Springs
on: Sun 07 of Mar, 2021 [16:33 UTC] score: 0.00
From Web Hydraulic roller (HR) cams require higher pressures to control the inertia of the heavier roller lifters and the faster acceleration of valve train components allowed by the use of the roller follower. Pure street small blocks should have 260-300lbs open pressure. For performance use, aim for 300-350lbs open. Racing small blocks that regularly see 6,000+rpm need over 400lbs open pressure. At these pressures, premium valve train components including a “billet” type cam are required. Even with these components, there will be reduced service life and the consequent need for more frequent parts inspection and replacement. Big blocks need closer to 300lbs open pressure for street driving and 350-375lbs is preferred for performance use. A racing big block needs 450lbs. As with small blocks, premium components including lifters are needed at higher pressures and rpm. As with solid lifter cams, seat pressures should be in the range of 105-125lbs for small blocks and 115-130lbs for big blocks for performance street cars. Blower cars and race cars will need higher seat pressures.

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DaveBlakeman
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Re: 330 Valve Springs
on: Sun 07 of Mar, 2021 [16:30 UTC] score: 0.00
A 130 lb spring pressure is not out of the ball park if it is seated pressure open about 320 lbs.

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DaveBlakeman
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Re: 330 Valve Springs
on: Sun 07 of Mar, 2021 [16:25 UTC] score: 0.00
Fact roller tappets are heavier than flat tappets Fact Roller cams have aggressive ramp angles . Theory at 130 lbs you will experience valve float very early on. You better do some google searching on this but do not run 130 lbs.

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joseph.coleman1
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331 hemi lower bell-housing
on: Thu 04 of Mar, 2021 [21:35 UTC] score: 0.00
Any idea where I can find?

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82Dodge331
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Holley EFI Timing Table
on: Thu 04 of Mar, 2021 [17:49 UTC] score: 0.00
Hello All,

I was wondering if anyone here has a good Timing Table for our 1st Gen Hemis?

I've got a '55 331, with 10:1 compression, factory cam, Hot Heads 4bbl intake, and Holley Sniper EFI with their HyperSpark Ignition system. It's in an '82 D-150, with A-518, 3.23 gears, and is just a cruiser, street, daily driven truck.

So with the HyperSpark I can create and change my own Timing Tables. Its exactly like Holleys Dominator, Terminator and HP EFI systems, if anyone has used them, just a Vacuum over RPM table. However, the Base Timing Tables do kinda suck, so I was hoping someone may have a good Holley Timing Table I could start with for a similar application?

If not, if anyone else has a set-up similar to mine (street cruiser) that knows where I should start? Like what's your Mech Adv? When does it kick in, kick out? Initial and Max Timing? Idle speed? Also Vacuum Adv curve? Then I can take that knowledge and make my own Timing Table.

I do appreciate any and all help.

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DaveBlakeman
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True or false ?
on: Tue 23 of Feb, 2021 [16:44 UTC] score: 0.00
Statement : to run a small block Mopar bellhousing on an early Hemi you need a smaller diameter 426 130 tooth flywheel. There is no way my 146 tooth flywheel will fit into the bell. This stuff is so confusing and it should not be.

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DaveBlakeman
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Re: True or false ?
on: Mon 01 of Mar, 2021 [19:04 UTC] score: 0.00
Like I said 146 would not fit into the bell. This smaller flywheel is news to me.

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ron37
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Re: True or false ?
on: Fri 26 of Feb, 2021 [17:04 UTC] score: 0.00
I'm running a 172 tooth with an early original 3/4' adapter in front of an AX15. Also a friend did a NV3500. Not sure what he did. That is why they say a 172 flywheel is better than a 146, so you can use any late model starter. I have not dealt with any late model flywheels. I forget the words to describe it, but the 130 tooth and the 172 are supposedly the same ratio per inch, thus they work.

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Jack
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Re: True or false ?
on: Wed 24 of Feb, 2021 [16:29 UTC] score: 0.00
I don't remember the tooth count, but yes, 426 Hemi flywheel.

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ron37
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Brake and Clutch pedals
on: Sun 14 of Feb, 2021 [18:25 UTC] score: 0.00
Helping a guy working on a 38 Dodge pickup. He has it on a later frame, which goes up in front of the cab with the coil spring suspension. This sets the engine higher as to the firewall. He is mounting the brake vacuum chamber, master cylinder and clutch cylinder on the fire wall. His issue is he needs to mount these things high, just under the hood , so he can remove the big hemi valve cover to adjust the valves. This causes an issue with the pedals being about 4 inches or so higher than normal. Does anyone know of any vehicles, car or truck, with longer than standard pedal assemblies. If not we will have to engineer something of an offset pushrod assembly. So thanks for and help.

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ron37
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Re: Brake and Clutch pedals
on: Fri 26 of Feb, 2021 [16:48 UTC] score: 0.00
Well we found that the old GM trucks from the 70's have long pedal assemblies. I'm sure Ford and Mopar probably had the same. Old non-power type also had long pedals as power brakes have a 4 to 1 ratio and non-power had a 6 to 1 or more back when. So that problem is solved with a $10 junkyard part. Thanks for all the ideas.

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hemistude
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Re: Brake and Clutch pedals
on: Tue 16 of Feb, 2021 [16:01 UTC] score: 0.00
> Helping a guy working on a 38 Dodge pickup. He has it on a later frame, which goes up in front of the cab with the coil spring suspension. This sets the engine higher as to the firewall.

I'm sure your friend didn't plan to fail... he just failed to plan. We've all been there!

Here's one idea that might get the brake booster out of the way of the rocker cover. I didn't know anything like this existed until I saw on on "Ant Anstead - Master Mechanic" on Motor Trend TV. Apparently 57 T-Birds use something like this too.

This approach might free up enough head clearance to leave all the pedals in the stock position.

https://powerbrakes.com/pb900-universal/
https://www.hydroboost.com.au/boostertypes.htm
https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/boosters/remote-mounted-brake-boosters-vacuum-booster

I put one of these on my 53 Studebaker because the under-floor master cylinder wasn't compatible with power brakes and the manual setup wasn't doing the job. I put the booster in the trunk and bent and routed a 3/8" hard steel vacuum line from the engine to the trunk (rubber vacuum hose for "give" at the hookup points.) I then ran a couple of long steel brake lines from the master cylinder to the remote booster and back. There is plenty of room under the truck to mount it. I didn't have a good spot under my car so the trunk was the obvious spot.

It worked like a charm. It took me about 4 hours sweaty August hours to build the lines and install it. Once bled, it resulted in very strong brakes and i kept the "clean" engine compartment look. Before, the Mopar disk/drum brakes were scary weak.

I used the VH-40 model which is a little larger and more powerful than the VH-44 model. It is specifically recommended for disk/drum installations. The VH-44 is for drum/drum. I got mine on Amazon for $150 delivered from Australia (this past July.)

Here's the one I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085LBWMX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It looks to be out of Amazon stock right now but they are definitely available elsewhere for more money. I think Covid may be to blame. Australia seem to be somewhat self-isolated. Google search "VH-40 booster".

Or he could go with manual brakes sad.

Maybe this will help.

Dave

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ron37
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Re: Brake and Clutch pedals
on: Mon 15 of Feb, 2021 [22:42 UTC] score: 0.00
We have been looking at that, but questioned if it would make the pedal swing ratio too great. We are thinking of an offset Z shaped rod to make the rod hit lower on the longer pedal arm for a better ratio. It didn't help having a 325 with adjustable rockers, then using the old 241 style chrome valve cover. Being none dimpled, we had to make 1/2" aluminum spacers and add another gasket for the valve covers. Thought I would ask. I'll drop a line when we figure out what to do. We haven't got to the steering yet, which will be power rack and pinion. Keep the fires lit.

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Jack
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Re: Brake and Clutch pedals
on: Mon 15 of Feb, 2021 [16:51 UTC] score: 0.00
How about raising the floor?

I had a similar problem once and made longer pedals and I didn't like how it drove that way.

The other alternative would be to put your master cyls. under the floor, or even on the floor with some racing cylinder assemblies from Wilwood or the likes.

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andytaylor@pactecinc.com
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auto trans
on: Tue 09 of Feb, 2021 [18:50 UTC] score: 0.00
i would like to use a auto trans with an overdrive any one have any ides as what would be best to use and what adapter to use. for a 56 354

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hemistude
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Re: auto trans
on: Thu 11 of Feb, 2021 [15:44 UTC] score: 0.00
> i would like to use a auto trans with an overdrive any one have any ides as what would be best to use and what adapter to use. for a 56 354

I recommend the Mopar A-518 aka 46RH. It is just like the small block 727 automatic. It ran in gas powered (mostly 360 cu in) pickups from 89 through the mid-90’s as I remember. It is fully hydraulic and has a 30% overdrive and converter lockup. Both the OD and the lockup are solenoid activated so no computer is required. There are some pretty simple hacks to get the OD and lockup rigged to work automatically. They are described in one or more of the links below. I have the simple setup with two pressure switches and a vacuum switch in my Studebaker with a 57 325 hemi. I recommend getting adjustable pressure and vacuum switches so you can fine-tune the OD/Lockup actuation and kickdown to your particular taste. I used a universal crossmember kit from speedway for the rear tranny mount. which one to order will depend on the drop amount you need with your frame.

The links below are in no particular order. They link to information and sources for everything you’ll need if you want to put a Mopar automatic behind your early hemi.

You can also use a 727 (no overdrive, but the same basic transmission.) The adapters and flex plate are the same. The 727's are getting a little harder to find but the 46RH's are plentiful.

Good luck!

Dave

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/chrysler-a-518-overdrive-transmission
https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/727-to-518-transmission-swap-information-2/
https://www.transdepot.net/A518-Lock-Up-Wiring-Instructions-46RH-Only_c_279.html
https://www.hgmelectronics.com/compushift-mini-overdrive-and-torque-converter-lock-up-kit-for-chrysler/
https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/adapter-for-early-hemi-354-or-392-engines-to-tf727-or-a518-overdrive-transmission/
http://www.wilcap.com/Hemi.html
http://hothemiheads.com/transmission_adapters/adapter_torqueflite.html
http://riley-auto.com/ADAPTERS.html



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