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Forum: Hot Heads Tech Talk

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on: Thu 01 of Jan, 1970 [00:00 UTC] reads:

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Eltyboy
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Need help with a 276 Desoto
on: Wed 15 of Jan, 2020 [02:51 UTC] score: 0.00
I aquired a 195r Desoto 276 hemi, it has been completely rebuilt but not assembled. I need to find a flexplate/flywheel that I can use to start it once it is assembled. I know they sell aftermarket adapters/flexplate, but I would like to find a easily attainable flywheel for a few starts before I decide what transmission I want to put behind it. Is there an easy crossover available?

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George
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Re: Need help with a 276 Desoto
on: Wed 15 of Jan, 2020 [23:25 UTC] score: 0.00
As far as bolting on a flywheel any from a hemi, hemi based poly or "A" Poly up to '61 is the same. If you want to go SB 727 then get a flexplate for the 426 hemi & tap the flange holes with a 1/2-20 tap

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Speedo#1
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Spark advance
on: Tue 07 of Jan, 2020 [00:48 UTC] score: 0.00
Sorry, having a brain fart.... 241 with a 1AZ-4003 distributor. Question: just added a Holley carb, should I connect dist. advance to the timed port or full vacuum? Thanks

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Speedo#1
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Re: Spark advance
on: Thu 09 of Jan, 2020 [02:46 UTC] score: 0.00
Sir, thank you. Good info!

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hemistude
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Re: Spark advance
on: Tue 07 of Jan, 2020 [16:14 UTC] score: 0.00
Speedo,

One more thing... Here's another article on the subject of ported vs. manifold ignition advance vacuum source:

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/advance.htm


Below, link to a graph from an engine equipped with a MAP sensor. Very interesting. It shows that the only place ported vacuum is in play is at ZERO throttle opening (in other words, at idle or throttle- closed deceleration.) Note the two plots by vacuum source at each throttle opening. The purple (ported) line only deviates from the blue (manifold) line when the throttle (yellow) is completely closed. Based on this info, I'd go for the best idle you can get because nothing else will be affected.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20160520%2Fac0d776c5550664a81db6976fc95f4d7.jpg&hash=51c5a49ce851b29cecac63f383823f72

With the original dual-point distributor (assuming yours has not been re-curved) I'm pretty sure yours will run best with the original factory setup of full vacuum. The decision is more dependent on static advance and advance weight/spring setup already built into your distributor than it is on the carburetor.

The more you learn and test, the better decision you'll make for your individual circumstance.

Dave

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hemistude
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Re: Spark advance
on: Tue 07 of Jan, 2020 [15:16 UTC] score: 0.00
Timed vs. ported vacuum advance is a deep subject.

There are well-formed schools of thought and hard-heads on both sides. The paper in this link provides a wealth of food for thought on timing. About halfway through, the subject of vacuum advance is covered.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/manifold-vs-ported-vacuum-article-i-just-read.783034/

I used to be in the "timed/ported" camp because I had been TOLD by many who I considered more experienced than myself, that ported was the only way to go with a modern carburetor. After reading several articles and doing my own open-minded experimentation I changed camps and I am now a staunch "full" vacuum supporter on vintage engines.

Pay close attention to the section that discusses WHY ported vacuum was adopted.

The two things that won me over in working with my 325 were better idle quality, and the significantly lower engine temperature at idle (it is a major factor if you're running a high performance engine with a stock radiator.) If you have a very high overlap cam, the idle quality issue may be the bigger advantage.

Just seeing for yourself what happens to your idle when you swap the hose from the ported to the full might give you an idea that full might be better. The idle speed will increase by 700-1000 rpm on the same carb idle setting. Rather than do what someone says (me or otherwise) try it both ways for yourself and see which you prefer for overall driving quality. Note: In changing from one way to the other, be sure to fine-tune the idle and air screws screws for best idle.

This all comes from my own personal experience. I'm not right or wrong. Do some research into the subject and reach your own informed conclusion.

Dave

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Jack
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Re: Spark advance
on: Tue 07 of Jan, 2020 [14:17 UTC] score: 0.00
Timed

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ron37
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Tall Deck Dodge
on: Mon 23 of Dec, 2019 [23:12 UTC] score: 0.00
Does anyone make the adapter plates to install a low deck 241/270 hemi 4 barrel aluminum intake on a tall deck 315/325 hemi? I have made some in the past and it was a real job. I also have taken other after market intakes for non Mopar engines and did a lot of cutting, heli-arcing and grinding to get there. If no one know of any, I guess I'll go back to making some again. Thanks for any leads.

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ron37
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Re: Tall Deck Dodge
on: Fri 03 of Jan, 2020 [01:20 UTC] score: 0.00
I think it is sad, when I ask a legitimate question and get dumb replies. Before I asked about using Spectra Chrome paint on my one intake. I got a bunch of people calling me cheap, etc. They said get it chromed, but I wanted the gold plated look. Real gold was super outrages. Well I went ahead and had it done with Spectra Chrome Gold. It looks great and holding up well to the engine heat.

Now for the manifold, I don't know of anyone selling aluminum tall deck 4 barrel intakes. I thought if someone was selling them, then someone would point me in the direction. I have a couple aluminum low deck units and I also have a couple tall deck cast iron 4 barrel units.

So mine was a real legitimate inquiry, not bragging. So does anyone know of anyone making tall deck aluminum 4 barrel manifolds for the 325 Dodge or spacers to mate the low deck manifold to the tall deck engine?

Thanks for any real help!

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George
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Re: Re: Tall Deck Dodge
on: Sat 04 of Jan, 2020 [23:30 UTC] score: 0.00


You'd think if there are low deck intakes there would be high deck also. I guess you'd be surprised at somethings people talk about doing on build treads on Forums to have bragging rights about strange doings instead of just buying a part. I guess check E Bay, the classifieds here or on the HAMB.

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George
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Re: Tall Deck Dodge
on: Mon 30 of Dec, 2019 [15:09 UTC] score: 0.00
Are you doing this for bragging rights? I'd assume that you have a low deck intake in hand. Probably better off selling it & buying a high deck intake.

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shag
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Looking for advise on factory 331 roller cam
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [06:20 UTC] score: 0.00
I stumbled across a factory chrysler panamerican road race cam. A friend got it with a time capsule roadster, it was too hot for him. It even had the original letters between the guy who used it second hand(ran 140 at bonnevile with it) He cut me a stupid cheap deal on it and the 1950's herbert lifters and guide plate.

So the direction for my coupe totally changed.

What kind of stuff do i need to make this run right? As in spring pressures, lash, compression ect? Anyone have experience with one of these or know someone who does?

I have a '30 plymouth coupe to put it in.

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George
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Re: Looking for advise on factory 331 roller cam
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [17:10 UTC] score: 0.00
All I can add is that you can widen the spring pads, but don't cut them any deeper.

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shag
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Re: Looking for advise on factory 331 roller cam
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [06:22 UTC] score: 0.00
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/factory-hemi-solid-roller-cams.552901/

Sorry if links arent allowed, but they have a spec sheet for one that got blueprinted here

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Bambamshere
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354 and 904 trans
on: Tue 10 of Dec, 2019 [22:58 UTC] score: 0.00
Does anyone know if the 904 automatic transmission will bolt to a 354 hemi. If not will the 727 toqueflite trans adapter work.

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moparlee
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Re: 354 and 904 trans
on: Sat 18 of Jan, 2020 [20:11 UTC] score: 0.00
> Does anyone know if the 904 automatic transmission will bolt to a 354 hemi. If not will the 727 toqueflite trans adapter work.

Interesting on the 904 thing....I wouldn't ever dreamed that would be a problem as far as the starter goes.

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George
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Re: 354 and 904 trans
on: Tue 10 of Dec, 2019 [23:02 UTC] score: 0.00
The 904 won't work because of the starter location. The 727 adaptors will work on all except the 51-3 long tail 331

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charleypete1957
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New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Sat 07 of Dec, 2019 [21:45 UTC] score: 0.00
I'm rebuilding a 1959 315 hemi truck engine I had bored out to 325 per Bob Walker, am using 10:1 compression Ross Pistons also per Bob. Everything has gone well so far. I got the heads bolted on, and now when I turn the engine over by hand I can feel places in the rotation like tiny, almost imperceptible tightenins and loosenings. That's the best way I know how to explain it. There's no interference, as I rotated the engine completely through two rotations after I adjusted each pushrod. Am I worried about nothing here? This is my first full blown rebuild so I'm not sure how it's supposed to feel. Any thoughts anyone?

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Webmaster
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Re: New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Mon 16 of Dec, 2019 [15:59 UTC] score: 0.00
Charlie: We have too many customers who do not read the instruction on the Melling timing set box or read the warning on our invoice. If you used the big 'O' at bottom gear, you are about 2 1/2 teeth off. Look closely for a small center punch dent. That's your TDC. The reason I mention this is that error usually results in bent exhaust valves.
It's worth looking at, Bob





> I'm rebuilding a 1959 315 hemi truck engine I had bored out to 325 per Bob Walker, am using 10:1 compression Ross Pistons also per Bob. Everything has gone well so far. I got the heads bolted on, and now when I turn the engine over by hand I can feel places in the rotation like tiny, almost imperceptible tightenins and loosenings. That's the best way I know how to explain it. There's no interference, as I rotated the engine completely through two rotations after I adjusted each pushrod. Am I worried about nothing here? This is my first full blown rebuild so I'm not sure how it's supposed to feel. Any thoughts anyone?

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Jack
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Re: New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [17:12 UTC] score: 0.00
Rotating the engine while driving the pump is a good idea.
Again, I am not familiar with Dodge, But on a Chrysler the oil path to the top is thru the camshaft, so oil only gets thru when the hole in the cam lines up with the passage to the top.
So the top doesn't get oil very often, and its hard to tell just when it does.


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