This is TikiWiki 1.9.7 -Sirius- © 2002–2006 by the Tiki community Tue 22 of Oct, 2019 [16:07 UTC]

Forum: Hot Heads Tech Talk

Forums->Hot Heads Tech Talk->

edit



 
on: Wed 31 of Dec, 1969 [23:00 UTC] reads:

Posted messages

Top
author message
Deon
user offline
M/T Hemi Head for Pontiac.
on: Mon 14 of Oct, 2019 [19:15 UTC] score: 0.00
I have a pair of M/T hemi heads for a PONTIAC. Information on valve length and spring specs used for a blown application or any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

author message
Deon
user offline
Re: M/T Hemi Head for Pontiac.
on: Mon 14 of Oct, 2019 [19:16 UTC] score: 0.00
> I have a pair of M/T hemi heads for a PONTIAC. Information on valve length and spring specs used for a blown application or any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

author message
fotoboydave
user offline
Engine max width
on: Thu 10 of Oct, 2019 [16:56 UTC] score: 0.00
I have a '56 354 Chrysler that I want to squeeze into a '39 Ford. I need to know the maximum width across the stock sheetmetal "FirePower" valve covers and the distance from this widest point back to the bellhousing mounting face. Since it's a '56, it's a short bellhousing block.

I looked for width dimensions on the web but found nothing. If someone knows a source for this info, please post it here. I'd measure it myself but my engine is totally disassembled.

The Ford has an aftermarket firewall sized to accept a big block Chevy. I know the Hemi is wider than a BBC, but the firewall recess is wider at the front so the Hemi will fit at least part of the way back. I'm trying to estimate how far back.

Thanks.

author message
DaveBlakeman
user offline
Re: Engine max width
on: Thu 10 of Oct, 2019 [21:16 UTC] score: 0.00
Laying a piece of plywood plumb on one side pushed against head- measuring off that to the furthest point on the other valve cover 28 inches. My widest point may be different than yours as I have a big block chevy water pump and machined pulleys that stick out far.

author message
fotoboydave
user offline
Re: Re: Engine max width
on: Fri 11 of Oct, 2019 [18:15 UTC] score: 0.00
> My widest point may be different than yours as I have a big block chevy water pump and machined pulleys that stick out far.

Dave,

I'm confused. Why would the water pump and pulleys affect the width? I know they affect the length - how close the water pump is to the radiator. That's a front-to-back measurement, looking at the engine from the side. I'm concerned about the width over the valve covers, looking at the engine from the front.

Thanks,
Dave

author message
DaveBlakeman
user offline
Re: Re: Re: Engine max width
on: Mon 14 of Oct, 2019 [17:47 UTC] score: 0.00
Sorry NOT my widest point but longest . My length may vary from others due to making my own pulleys. They stick out far . Width is 28

author message
DaveBlakeman
user offline
Re: Engine max width
on: Thu 10 of Oct, 2019 [20:00 UTC] score: 0.00
I will measure a 354 for you. Give me a few hours > Thanks

author message
ron37
user offline
Gear Ratio
on: Mon 30 of Sep, 2019 [19:40 UTC] score: 0.00
I have a 325 hemi in my 1937 Plymouth pickup. Got a 1997 Dodge 5 speed manual trans. I have a 1967 Charger 8 3/4 posi rear end that I am thinking on using. It has 3.23 gears. It was from a car with a V8 4 speed manual trans. I think it had a 383 magnum engine. They were heavier than my pickup. My question is whether this gearing is okay for street and highway driving or do I need lower. Anyone using this ratio without issues? What ratio do you use with standard transmissions in these old toy? I had a 4.11 in another toy with a 4 speed manual and it seemed like I was running a little high on the RPM's on the highways.

author message
moparruss
user offline
Re: Gear Ratio
on: Tue 01 of Oct, 2019 [15:30 UTC] score: 0.00
I have a 1950 Plymouth Suburban 2 door station wagon with a 1957 Desoto 341 hemi. I have a 1969 B body 8 3/4 rear end with a 3.23 gear set. I run a GM 700R4 trans. In 3rd gear (which is 1/1 ratio) with a 28" diameter rear tire I see 2700 RPM at 70 MPH. In 4th gear (which is over driven .7/1) I see 1900 RPM at 70 MPH. This works great for me. Hope the information helps.

Russ

author message
Jack
user offline
Re: Gear Ratio
on: Tue 01 of Oct, 2019 [15:19 UTC] score: 0.00
I run 3:91s on my manual overdrive , Its an A833 four speed that is OD in fourth.
Behind a 392 in a heavy 46 Chrysler. Much better than the 3:23s I tried at first..

author message
George
user offline
Re: Gear Ratio
on: Tue 01 of Oct, 2019 [00:51 UTC] score: 0.00
I once had a '69 Charger with a 383 & 3.23 gears, great car. Never ran a 5 speed stick, but I had a Crown Vic Police Interceptor with a 351/AOD/3.08 If it ran well for the cops I figured it was fine. Yours with 3.23 probably will be. OEM gears were probably in the 3.3-3.5 ratio with a 3 speed stick or 2 speed A/T.

author message
DaveBlakeman
user offline
Harmonic balancer rebuild service
on: Mon 30 of Sep, 2019 [16:05 UTC] score: 0.00
Hemmings service section has an outfit that rebuilds harmonic balancers . Anybody use this service ?

author message
51coronet
user offline
oil pressure problem
on: Sun 29 of Sep, 2019 [08:36 UTC] score: 0.00
Hoping to get some ideas. 392 hemi fresh build.


The oil pressure and volume at the filter is good from what I can tell. It will flow hard and fast like a full pressure garden hose when I pull one side off (the return to engine side)

I have very little volume and no pressure at the hole near the distributor that runs to the pressure gauge.

After doing some reading I found that the threaded hole at the distributor intermediate shaft front of engine was missing a plug This is very close to the cam gear. Funny because I couldn't find where the last plug in the plug kit went from HH and figured it was a spare. Installed that. It was fun. Didn't remove anything but the distributor and intermediate shaft for the oil pump and managed to tighten that thing down.

Checked pressure again and it seems like I have less flow at the hole in the rear of the engine and still no pressure.

Before I assembled this I made sure the ball check valve thing was removed. I had a straight shot down to the oil pump mounting surface from what I can remember.
I also installed that plunger that directs oil to the filter that installs at the rear main.

I am using a HH high volume oil pump. I checked the cam bearings before assembly to be sure the shop did them correctly. Im using a spin on filter and relocation kit. But like I said I have really good flow and pressure from the filter side back to the engine.

I pulled a valve cover and see no oil coming up but watched someones video and others commented saying its normal to see almost no oil in the valve train. I don't like it, my valve train seems noisy.

So is there anything else I can check? I was hoping that plug below the distributor would have fixed the problem but the problem is still there.

Anyone have an oil flow diagram for a 392 they can share?


Forgot to mention I put some air into the hole 40 to 60 psi and hear it free flow to the bottom of the engine. No gurgle sounds just air moving inside sounds. Should I get a different result?




author message
51coronet
user offline
Re: oil pressure problem
on: Mon 30 of Sep, 2019 [19:08 UTC] score: 0.00
Hmm off topic but there is a delete button to make responses easier to find. These are the only forums I have seen like this.

Back on topic. Yeah the upper end is new roller rocker stanke stuff. I used compressed air to verify the openings were lined up and clear etc to the cam bearings before assembly. The hold down holes are lined up correctly for oil.

Anyway upper end is not a concern just yet. Getting oil pressure is.

I pulled the pan and removed the main bearing and the plunger that diverts oil to filter before its used in the engine. is it possible to fish wire through oil passages or is it difficult or impossible?


A bit off topic If I were to not use the plunger I would read full pressure at the gauge in theory because its a straight shot to the gauge port from the pump. Im guessing the factory check valve was there cure to that originally.



author message
George
user offline
Re: Re: oil pressure problem
on: Mon 30 of Sep, 2019 [22:39 UTC] score: 0.00
I see you've gotten the diagrams at the Forward look site. If plug was missing the oil would go direct to the sending unit, w/o any going through the fllter. The only way oil couldn't get to the sending unit, where you verified the pump is working, would be if someone plugged the passage above where the oil goes back into the block, I'd think.

author message
George
user offline
Re: oil pressure problem
on: Mon 30 of Sep, 2019 [15:51 UTC] score: 0.00
>
>
> After doing some reading I found that the threaded hole at the distributor intermediate shaft front of engine was missing a plug This is very close to the cam gear. Funny because I couldn't find where the last plug in the plug kit went from HH and figured it was a spare. Installed that. It was fun. Didn't remove anything but the distributor and intermediate shaft for the oil pump and managed to tighten that thing down.

little oil pressure with it out, but a common trick is to drill a .050 hole in it to lube the cam/dizzy gears.
>
>" Checked pressure again and it seems like I have less flow at the hole in the rear of the engine and still no pressure.
>
> Before I assembled this I made sure the ball check valve thing was removed. I had a straight shot down to the oil pump mounting surface from what I can remember.
> I also installed that plunger that directs oil to the filter that installs at the rear main."

Yes, it's a straight shot from the sending unit hole out the bottom if main cap is off. The HH Block goes in where the anti drain back check ball you removed was. where did you pit the 'plunger" you mentioned. The oil should have a straight shot at the sending unit when it goes back in the block from the filter.

>
>
>
> I pulled a valve cover and see no oil coming up but watched someones video and others commented saying its normal to see almost no oil in the valve train. I don't like it, my valve train seems noisy.

The rocker shafts should have been disassembled and cleaned during the rebuild, if not sludge & dried up oil could be clogging things up. oil to shafts come up one stand, if assembled out of order, or acam bearing that supplys the oil was installed wrong you'd get no oil to that bank. Hopefully it was well lubed before start up.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

author message
51coronet
user offline
Re: oil pressure problem
on: Sun 29 of Sep, 2019 [08:41 UTC] score: 0.00
sorry double post.

author message
Ccrussell
user offline
Harmonic balancer
on: Thu 19 of Sep, 2019 [23:25 UTC] score: 0.00
Hello,
I have a 392 that has been in service for 8 or 9 years, but it has very low miles in that time. It is running the Hotheads 340 harmonic balancer. Car runs well.
Yesterday i got out the timing light to check things over and found that i cannot get the timing marks to line up anywhere close to what it should be.
If i turn the distributor to 8 to 10 degrees initial the car practically wont run.
Turning the distributor , setting by “ear” the car runs great.
What gives?
I am thinking of setting # 1 to tdc and installing a timing tape and starting fresh. Am i on track? This work?
Thanks

author message
51coronet
user offline
Re: Harmonic balancer
on: Sun 29 of Sep, 2019 [08:12 UTC] score: 0.00
I used Innovative Products of America 7886 10.5" Long Top Dead Center Indicator
and a dial indicator with magnetic base. Valve covers on just removed #1 sparkplug.
shine a flashlight inside to watch for the intake valve to close. then rotate clockwise from the front till the indicator stops moving.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMSU9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the fluidampr balancer on my 392 and the stock timing cover arrow points near the 270 mark. Fluidampr likely made these to point 0 at the 12oclock position. which you cant see hence the stock timing cover having the arrow on the passenger side at about 10 oclock.

If you use the method I did you can just look at the dial indicator to stop moving. No need to go in reverse because the balancer doesnt have the resolution a large degree wheel would in order to see a few degrees flat spot on the crank. I marked it with white out and ordered the timing tape for a 7.25 inch balancer. the 340 balancer may be different.

author message
hemistude
user offline
Re: Harmonic balancer
on: Tue 24 of Sep, 2019 [13:59 UTC] score: 0.00
You're on the right track. I agree with Jack. Make a piston stop of some sort and find the true TDC. Carefully mark the balancer where it lines up with your pointer and then turn the crank so it is in a good position to access the new marking with a Dremel and a small cutoff wheel. You can easily grind a new, very accurate groove to permanently mark true TDC. And it will be 100% accurate -- something that can't be guaranteed by the HH damper and a 65 year old pointer combination.

You add up a timing tape to complete the job. If you have a degree-adjustable timing light you really don't even need the tape, but the 90 degree markings on a tape are really helpful when adjusting the valves. Whenever I put on a timing tape, I degrease the mounting surface with laquer thinner and scuff it up. I always glue it on with Permatex Weatherstrip adhesive (the yellow stuff). The adhesive on many timing tapes can't handle the heat cycling and they eventually fly off.

I took the cheap way out on my balancer. For the record, I have a 325 Dodge. I bought a stock 318 balancer from RockAuto. It didn't have the re-broached keyway to make it line up right on the early hemi, but with the re-marked TDC and a glued on tape, it's just as good and it saved me $100.

Good luck!

Dave


Page: 1/68  [next]

Show posts: