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Forum: Hot Heads Tech Talk

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on: Thu 01 of Jan, 1970 [00:00 UTC] reads:

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shag
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Looking for advise on factory 331 roller cam
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [06:20 UTC] score: 0.00
I stumbled across a factory chrysler panamerican road race cam. A friend got it with a time capsule roadster, it was too hot for him. It even had the original letters between the guy who used it second hand(ran 140 at bonnevile with it) He cut me a stupid cheap deal on it and the 1950's herbert lifters and guide plate.

So the direction for my coupe totally changed.

What kind of stuff do i need to make this run right? As in spring pressures, lash, compression ect? Anyone have experience with one of these or know someone who does?

I have a '30 plymouth coupe to put it in.

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George
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Re: Looking for advise on factory 331 roller cam
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [17:10 UTC] score: 0.00
All I can add is that you can widen the spring pads, but don't cut them any deeper.

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shag
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Re: Looking for advise on factory 331 roller cam
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [06:22 UTC] score: 0.00
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/factory-hemi-solid-roller-cams.552901/

Sorry if links arent allowed, but they have a spec sheet for one that got blueprinted here

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Bambamshere
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354 and 904 trans
on: Tue 10 of Dec, 2019 [22:58 UTC] score: 0.00
Does anyone know if the 904 automatic transmission will bolt to a 354 hemi. If not will the 727 toqueflite trans adapter work.

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George
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Re: 354 and 904 trans
on: Tue 10 of Dec, 2019 [23:02 UTC] score: 0.00
The 904 won't work because of the starter location. The 727 adaptors will work on all except the 51-3 long tail 331

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charleypete1957
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New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Sat 07 of Dec, 2019 [21:45 UTC] score: 0.00
I'm rebuilding a 1959 315 hemi truck engine I had bored out to 325 per Bob Walker, am using 10:1 compression Ross Pistons also per Bob. Everything has gone well so far. I got the heads bolted on, and now when I turn the engine over by hand I can feel places in the rotation like tiny, almost imperceptible tightenins and loosenings. That's the best way I know how to explain it. There's no interference, as I rotated the engine completely through two rotations after I adjusted each pushrod. Am I worried about nothing here? This is my first full blown rebuild so I'm not sure how it's supposed to feel. Any thoughts anyone?

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Jack
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Re: New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [17:12 UTC] score: 0.00
Rotating the engine while driving the pump is a good idea.
Again, I am not familiar with Dodge, But on a Chrysler the oil path to the top is thru the camshaft, so oil only gets thru when the hole in the cam lines up with the passage to the top.
So the top doesn't get oil very often, and its hard to tell just when it does.

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Jack
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Re: New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Sun 08 of Dec, 2019 [16:24 UTC] score: 0.00
You make it sound like you rotated the engine after adjusting the valves
If the configuration is that same as a 392 one would torque the heads before adjusting the valves.
Also make sure you have plenty of oil in the cylinders, I guess you could get some binding if the cylinders (rings) are dry. Did you fit the rings to the bore?

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charleypete1957
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Re: Re: New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Thu 12 of Dec, 2019 [21:10 UTC] score: 0.00
> You make it sound like you rotated the engine after adjusting the valves
> If the configuration is that same as a 392 one would torque the heads before adjusting the valves.
> Also make sure you have plenty of oil in the cylinders, I guess you could get some binding if the cylinders (rings) are dry. Did you fit the rings to the bore?

Hey George
Yes, I torqued the heads in three stages then adjusted each rocker arm to specs. After each one was adjusted I then rotated the engine by hand through two complete revolutions to ensure that there was no valve interference. The little hesitations I feel may have been there before when I finished adjusting all the rockers (pushrods in this case) but I didn’t notice it until I came back to it a few weeks later. I will try what others have suggested, to squirt a little oil into each cylinder and spin the oil pump and build pressure in the whole system and see what happens. Thanks for your insights.

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George
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Re: Re: Re: New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Fri 13 of Dec, 2019 [17:08 UTC] score: 0.00
spin the oil pump and build pressure in the whole system and see what happens.



You need to do that before starting anyhow. Also (if hyd) lifters need to be pressurized before adjusting pushrods vs dry. When running O/P with drill motor have 1 person SLOWLY turning over the engine while the 2nd guy is running the drill. There are 2 places during the cycle that the rockers get oil. You'll hear a drop in tension when you get to each point. 1 place oils one side & the other side @ the other point.

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George
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Re: Re: New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Tue 10 of Dec, 2019 [23:09 UTC] score: 0.00

> Also make sure you have plenty of oil in the cylinders,

But not enough to hydraulic the cyl….

author message
charleypete1957
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Re: New 315/325 hemi rebuild
on: Sat 07 of Dec, 2019 [21:46 UTC] score: 0.00
> I'm rebuilding a 1959 315 hemi truck engine I had bored out to 325 per Bob Walker, am using 10:1 compression Ross Pistons also per Bob. Everything has gone well so far. I got the heads bolted on, and now when I turn the engine over by hand I can feel places in the rotation like tiny, almost imperceptible tightenins and loosenings. That's the best way I know how to explain it. There's no interference, as I rotated the engine completely through two rotations after I adjusted each pushrod. Am I worried about nothing here? This is my first full blown rebuild so I'm not sure how it's supposed to feel. Any thoughts anyone?

author message
gunnibronco
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heads
on: Thu 28 of Nov, 2019 [05:26 UTC] score: 0.00
I'm hoping to get some advice on some heads I have a chance to buy. I'm not an expert and trying to buy good parts at good price for a long term build.

Over the last few years I have bought 2 51-53 extended bell housing 331s. Both disassembled. Both motors have a set of early heads with rockers. I have one set of exhaust manifolds. One motor came with a ceramic coated Weiand 2x4 intake with carter carbs (no tstat in manifold). One motor came with a 1954 4bbl factory intake manifold (tstat in manifold).

I expect I will bore the block out. I'd like to go up to the 354 bore size, assuming one of my blocks is solid enough.

From what I've read the early heads don't flow well. I'm guessing that both the 1954 4bbl and the Weiand 2x4 would outflow the heads.

I've found someone selling several sets of heads, rockers, and exhaust manifolds.

He has a single 1955 head (casting #1556157-1).

He has what he claims is a matching 1954-55 set (casting #1632158-1 & 1832159-1- I'm wondering if this is actually 1632159-1). These numbers don't match what I've found on line. Are these actually 54/55 heads? One google search came up with 54/55 Dodge truck heads. Are they better than my 51-53 heads? Do I need matching rockers & exhaust manifolds or will my 331 rockers & exhaust work?

He also has what appears to be 3x 1956 354 heads (castings 1619823-1). Would these be a good head for my motor?

The prices seem fair but they are a long drive away (4 hours each way). I don't know what to look for and really don't want to drive that far if it's not what I want.

Thanks.



author message
Webmaster
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Re: heads
on: Thu 05 of Dec, 2019 [22:36 UTC] score: 0.00
gunnibronco: 1556157 = '55 car
1632159 = truck
1619823 = '56 car

The other numbers are not list and hard to read many times. This information came from the "Hemi Engine Data book" We sell for $14.95.
If you go to swap meets you need this in your back pocket.
Hope this helps, Bob







> I'm hoping to get some advice on some heads I have a chance to buy. I'm not an expert and trying to buy good parts at good price for a long term build.
>
> Over the last few years I have bought 2 51-53 extended bell housing 331s. Both disassembled. Both motors have a set of early heads with rockers. I have one set of exhaust manifolds. One motor came with a ceramic coated Weiand 2x4 intake with carter carbs (no tstat in manifold). One motor came with a 1954 4bbl factory intake manifold (tstat in manifold).
>
> I expect I will bore the block out. I'd like to go up to the 354 bore size, assuming one of my blocks is solid enough.
>
> From what I've read the early heads don't flow well. I'm guessing that both the 1954 4bbl and the Weiand 2x4 would outflow the heads.
>
> I've found someone selling several sets of heads, rockers, and exhaust manifolds.
>
> He has a single 1955 head (casting #1556157-1).
>
> He has what he claims is a matching 1954-55 set (casting #1632158-1 & 1832159-1- I'm wondering if this is actually 1632159-1). These numbers don't match what I've found on line. Are these actually 54/55 heads? One google search came up with 54/55 Dodge truck heads. Are they better than my 51-53 heads? Do I need matching rockers & exhaust manifolds or will my 331 rockers & exhaust work?
>
> He also has what appears to be 3x 1956 354 heads (castings 1619823-1). Would these be a good head for my motor?
>
> The prices seem fair but they are a long drive away (4 hours each way). I don't know what to look for and really don't want to drive that far if it's not what I want.
>
> Thanks.
>
>

author message
gunnibronco
user offline
Re: heads
on: Thu 28 of Nov, 2019 [18:50 UTC] score: 0.00
I've got more info from the seller, and have read enough to know what options I have.

He has a set of 55-56 (not 54) heads w/casting code 1632159-1. I've found these are 55-56 331 Industrial heads.

He has a set of 56 354 heads casting 1819823-1.

So my question: Is the work & money worth it to use the 55+ 331 or 354 heads worth it, or should I stick with the 51-53 "low flow" heads I have? I'll have to add a water cross over w/t-stat housing/water neck.

I'm putting this motor into a 39 Plymouth coupe. It will be a 'hot rod' street driver. Just looking for fun and reliable. Should I keep it simple or will switching to newer heads be worth the extra power? It won't be a race car, I'm not trying to get 600 hp. I think 300+ would make the car fast enough for street driving.

author message
Speedo#1
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241 spark plug
on: Wed 27 of Nov, 2019 [01:24 UTC] score: 0.00
So, long story short, I am adding Obrien Trucker cast VC to my 241. I am using HH stock type aluminum tubes. I had to trim them down a few thou., width wise, no biggie. Got me looking at my spark plugs. While checking the tubes for fitment on a mocked up stock 241 head, I noticed that my plugs, currently Autolite 86, without washer, look like they dont even reach into the combustion chamber.

So my question, finally (LOL), am I running the correct plugs? Should I run a plug with a longer each? What are you 241 peeps running?
Thanks,
Mike

author message
Webmaster
user offline
Re: 241 spark plug
on: Tue 10 of Dec, 2019 [20:46 UTC] score: 0.00
Speedo: Opps! My mistake! use an Autolite 86 for a 241 and remove the washer.
Sorry if I caused confusion, Bob




> So, long story short, I am adding Obrien Trucker cast VC to my 241. I am using HH stock type aluminum tubes. I had to trim them down a few thou., width wise, no biggie. Got me looking at my spark plugs. While checking the tubes for fitment on a mocked up stock 241 head, I noticed that my plugs, currently Autolite 86, without washer, look like they dont even reach into the combustion chamber.
>
> So my question, finally (LOL), am I running the correct plugs? Should I run a plug with a longer each? What are you 241 peeps running?
> Thanks,
> Mike

author message
Webmaster
user offline
Re: 241 spark plug
on: Tue 10 of Dec, 2019 [20:34 UTC] score: 0.00
Speedo: For a 241, use an Autolite 65 with the washers removed.
Good luck,
Bob



Speedo> So, long story short, I am adding Obrien Trucker cast VC to my 241. I am using HH stock type aluminum tubes. I had to trim them down a few thou., width wise, no biggie. Got me looking at my spark plugs. While checking the tubes for fitment on a mocked up stock 241 head, I noticed that my plugs, currently Autolite 86, without washer, look like they dont even reach into the combustion chamber.
>
> So my question, finally (LOL), am I running the correct plugs? Should I run a plug with a longer each? What are you 241 peeps running?
> Thanks,
> Mike

author message
Speedo#1
user offline
Re: 241 spark plug
on: Sun 08 of Dec, 2019 [17:50 UTC] score: 0.00
> So, long story short, I am adding Obrien Trucker cast VC to my 241. I am using HH stock type aluminum tubes. I had to trim them down a few thou., width wise, no biggie. Got me looking at my spark plugs. While checking the tubes for fitment on a mocked up stock 241 head, I noticed that my plugs, currently Autolite 86, without washer, look like they dont even reach into the combustion chamber.
>
> So my question, finally (LOL), am I running the correct plugs? Should I run a plug with a longer each? What are you 241 peeps running?
> Thanks,
> Mike

Really?? No ideas? Come on people!????

author message
dcrogers
user offline
Head temps
on: Tue 26 of Nov, 2019 [16:46 UTC] score: 0.00
Drivers head temp is running 40 degrees hotter than pass side is this nomal


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